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" ... The first of those offers the easiest way to make a distinction, for the outdated scruffy, wainscotted look set decades ago by places like The Palm and Peter Luger has almost disappeared in lieu of grander schemes. The second, quality of products, is almost a given in New York—though not outside of it. The best beef and seafood is still sold to a New York market willing to pay the highest price, so one steakhouse’s beef and lobster better be every bit as good as the other’s (although this isn’t always the case all the way down the menu). Third, service is a true identifier, especially in New York where the old-line steakhouses deliberately proffer a 1960s clubbish swagger that just doesn’t cut it anymore. ... "