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" ... Nowhere is this more distinctive than in the Basque country of Northern Spain, especially in the seaside city of San Sebastian and the surging cultural capital of Bilbao. The Basque country, stretching from the French border westward to Cantabria and Burgos, is only 4,500 square miles of territory, and you can’t drive more than three hours in any direction without crossing into another province. It is richly indebted to foods from the Cantanbrian Sea—chipirones (baby squid), ventresca (tuna belly), rodaballo (turbot), gambas (shrimp), merluza (hake), kokotxas (hake cheeks), bacalao (cod), almejas, (clams), txangurro (spider-crab), cigalas (langoustines), and the famous—and very expensive—angulas (baby eels), found in the estuaries of the Bay of Biscay. ... "