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" ... Medina’s refined touch isn’t readily apparent, because the look of all three Toloache outposts is so populist, even expected, and the clientele at every location is so young, spirited and second-nature-devoted, the uninitiated might assume the houses’ big draw must be reasonable pricing and fall-in-the-door unfussiness. Both observations have validity (though if you fall in any of them without a reservation, good luck), but that ain’t it. All credit goes to Medina (who trained under Sandoval) and his tuna belly taquitos with habanero salsa, tartly sweet garlic and chipotle flecked shrimp spiked by tamarind salsa, and his yellowtail ceviche getting an extra kick from key lime, radish and watermelon for packing crowds in from 6pm on. ... "