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" ... There’s not a Noma or a Celler de Can Roca anywhere in sight here. Maybe some of the restaurants on this list will someday reach the upper echelons of those high-profile lists. Maybe they won’t. That isn’t the point. These places are interesting right now, and (so far) undersung, whether because they’re new or because they’ve been happily flying under the radar. Dining at them confers bragging rights, for whatever that’s worth, without being as obvious as the usual suspects. They’re worth our attention—especially those of us who are willing to travel for a good meal. ... "