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" ... My next gate to Asia opened a few days later as we steamed into Hong Kong harbor on a crisp, sunny New Year's Day. The water was--forgive the cliché, but this was the metaphor that came to me that morning--the color of jade. The harbor throbbed with commerce: junks (the real things!), sampans, freighters, ferries, warships. The busy ports I'd experienced in the United States (New York, L.A., New Orleans, San Francisco) seemed positively somnolent in contrast with Hong Kong. Within minutes of dropping our anchor, small boats were tied alongside, men scampering up the gangway. I was still coiling lines when a dapper fellow trailing a measuring tape accosted me, smiling, wanting to tailor me a bespoke suit that he would deliver the next morning for $20. The tallest building I remember seemed to be the Peninsula hotel, then seven stories high. When I returned to Hong Kong 30 years later, through an altogether different sort of gate, I could barely make out the Peninsula amidst the Himalaya of neon-lit skyscrapers. ... "