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" ... Right from the start, the laws were accused of being politically promulgated, but there was no argument that they lifted the reputation of Italian viticulture to international status and soaring sales. One real problem was that some of the most progressive wineries, especially in Northern Italy, were producing wines that did not use the traditional grape blends of their zones, despite being hailed with industry market names like “Super Tuscans.” These, under the laws, had to be labeled merely vino da tavola, “table wine,” just as all non-DOC wines were. Later on, under protest, the laws added the label term IGT (indicazione geografica tipica), meaning little more than a typical wine of the region. ... "
" ... The internationally acclaimed “Super Tuscan” style owes its reputation to Tenuta San Guido, which, in 1968, released an aged Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Bolgheri, farther south near the coast, known famously today as Sassicaia. Because it wasn’t from an official geographic denomination of origin at the time, it was released under the radar as a basic vino da tavola. Soon after, Antinori released a similar vino da tavola blend in 1971 called Tignanello. These wines kicked off a trend throughout the Bolgheri region toward discovering what French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and even Syrah could do within the coastal Italian soils. Today, the Super Tuscan style, which may often include some percentage of Sangiovese, has become a hallmark of the region. Both Brunello di Montalcino and Super Tuscan wines pair well with a classic bistecca alla fiorentina with roasted potatoes and vegetables. (Note: For a lighter pairing, try Pecorino Romano, a sharp, pungent sheep’s milk cheese with a distinctive salty, nutty flavor.) ... "
" ... While this issue is being argued, the family at Volpaia continues their work. One of their most famous wines is Coltasalla, a wine that played an important role in the development and history of today's Chianti Classico world. Stianti notes that they have three single vineyards, with Coltasalla being produced since 1980. "That wine was like a pioneer for us," she remarks, "as it was one of the first 95% Sangiovese. At that time, we were only able to call it IGT or vino da tavola. We labeled it Chianti Classico as soon as were able, in 1999. That became a Chianti Classico riserva. Now it’s a Gran Selezione. ... "