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" ... I doubt you’ll find a more rigorously authentic soupe à l’oignon gratinée aux deux fromage ($15) than chef Camin’s perfectly browned version of caramelized onions, while tartare de thon “La Goulue” façon Japonnaise ($24 or $36) is a welcome novelty made with tuna instead of beef, well spiced with wasabi miso, coriander and crispy tempura. (Beef tartare is available as a main course.) A hearty winter’s terrine of duck and cèpes ($17) comes with a crisp golden pastry crust just thick enough to matter in the cooking and thin enough to enjoy as part of every bite. Sadly, the restaurant’s signature cheese soufflé ($28) is available only at lunch, which is good enough reason for me to return at midday. ... "