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" ... Sushi restaurants in New York seem to be gaining on Italian in sheer numbers, though most are run-of-the-mill with mediocre seafood product. Then there are the ultra-exorbitant sushi bars in imitation of those small counters in Japan where one person can easily blow $500 in a tasting menu decided by the chef, despite décor that more or less begins and ends with a polished counter and a view of the seafood and sobersided itamae carving it. ... "