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" ... Most people would not want to go to a restaurant where he or she would not feel comfortable, which ranges from places that are way too loud to those where an attitude of snobbism reigns. Yet many people do. The loud restaurants are now legion, usually by design, so as to give the evening a sense of excitement and razzle dazzle. Indeed, some chef-owners deliberately want the piped-in music to blast the glassware off the table. Many such places may well have good food, but so often they are simply more a restaurant-of-the-moment that the media have declared “hot.” The food hardly matters to the crowd, mostly on the young side, who care more about seeing and being seen. ... "