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" ... The most intriguing wines of Valtellina - and from Negri - are the sforzato wines. To dry the Nebbiolo grapes - only this variety is allowed in a sforzato - the producers place them in a small hut known as a fruttaio, a small building that is exposed to the elements. There are no motor-driven fans or other modern technology that dry the grapes over the course of approximately 100 days, rather, it is the natural wind of the valley. "During the nights," Drocco comments, the temperature goes below 10 degrees C, so the nights are cool and the drying is slow." The two examples from Negri, the Carlo Negri Sfrusat and the Cinque Stelle Sforzato - the former aged in large casks, the latter in barrique - are formidable wines of great complexity, superb structure and notable aging potential. ... "