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" ... And then not. It's Paris, so Katz's famously surly septugenarian linemen, whose tough love attends the New York deli-ravenous, have been replaced by – whom else – fabulously hip, genuinely kind and beautiful French waitresses in very different clothing than one usually encounters in a brisket emporium. And! In Schwartz's, there's an awesome bottle of Sancerre to accompany your lox – as opposed to a celery soda. For an American, it's an out-of-body experience to have good alcohol available at the same moment on the same table as a few three-ton pastrami sandwiches and some lox. ... "