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" ... And here in the twilight gloom, you’ll meet a wide-eyed seabream whose actual scientific name is Boops boops. In reality, the scariest thing about this fish is the massive load of parasites it usually carries around. The swarms of flatworms, roundworms, and tiny parasitic cnidarians crawling around inside the fish’s body are the stuff of horror movies (although they’re also terribly interesting in their own right, to be fair). ... "
" ... The combination of influences came through in dishes such as a ceviche of seabream, coriander and lime, succulent milk tart with eel, onions and bottarga, crayfish tartare with asparagus, silky foie gras with avocado and horseradish, sweetbreads with coconut, passionfruit and the creamy cheese Fontainebleau. Dover sole meuniere stuffed with cabbage, black truffle and fresh capers was an elegant dish; frog gizzard was one that reminded me that I was in France. His signature mushrooms combined Japanese Shimeji mushrooms and Parisian mushrooms extracted through an eight hour process into cream, then repopulated with whole mushrooms flavored with black cardamom. It’s an absolutely knockout dish. A confection of lemon, lime, pear, mandarin and saffron preceded a dense, crunchy chocolate cream to finish. And all were accompanied by either the expected—refined, corresponding wines—or more surprises, such as aged Pu’er tea or beer served by a knowledgeable staff. The overall effect is haute cuisine but fresh, modern and with a dash of wit. It's likely to be one of the most memorable dinners you can have now in the city. ... "