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" ... And so on to the delicately wrought pastas at Senso Unico: Spaghetti with plum, cherry, and Roma tomato sauce that was the essence of summer in a bowl ($24), as was the scialatielli alla Nerano ($24), a fat form of spaghetti with green and yellow squash, basil butter and Parmigiano. Spaghetti with the small vongole clams in their shells seems a simple dish, but getting the balance of the white wine, tomatoes and salsa verde takes canny timing, and Vincenzo’s got his down pat ($17). The heartiest of the pastas I sampled was fusilli Avellinesi ($19), made with sweet Italian sausage, tomato and a truffle sauce. Portions are very generous. ... "