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" ... How did it happen that the most beloved of all American culinary icons—the hamburger—has gone from prole comfort food to nutritional bugbear to decadent trendiness? How did a dish so humble become such an object of both scorn and fashionable hyper-indulgence? And how did something that once sold for fifteen cents rise to the price range of porterhouse steak? ... "
" ... With only 318,00 residents St. Louis has a vibrant dining scene that, as in every American city, goes from high to low, from posh to prole, and just about every ethnic stripe can be found around town, not least near the University and Delmar Loop. The area called The Hill is still largely Italian-American, as are the restaurants, and the casinos have added the usual steakhouses and chain eateries. ... "