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" ... Tables are hard to come by at this Woodstock institution, founded 15 years ago by a local couple—and not merely because there only about 20 seats and the whole place is open just four nights a week, ten months a year. The Italian-revivalist menu and creative wine list have been hailed by all sorts of publications, yet the vibe remains more convivial local hangout than reverent foodie pilgrimage destination, and the well-schooled prioprietors (he apprenticed at a trattoria in Tuscany; she studied winemaking in France and Italy) couldn’t be more down to earth. The menus, which change weekly, are full of things that shouldn’t work but somehow do: A thin-crust pizza with black olives and oranges was surprisingly delicious. ... "