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" ... Inside, it ain’t three-star, that’s for sure. Good. I instantly recognized it for what it is: a bustling warren of rooms (old beams, old stucco, old photos, and small old Madrid paintings) where proud ownership (Old Lucio’s there, after 60 years!), incredibly good and attentive experienced waiters, and non-egoistic chefs are pleasuring you with the best of traditional Spain. It clicked, immediately: this is now my Madrid version of that simple but marvelous restaurant I love everywhere, where the walls ain’t fancy, the provender ain’t cheap, but same provender is worth every penny. Places that say most of what you need to know about a culinary tradition. This is L’Ami Louis in Paris. This is Zuni Café in San Francisco. This is Sammy’s Roumanian in New York City. This is having a raucous night out with other high-minded food people, hold the twee platings and garnishes. This is paradise. ... "