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" ... Yim’s opening in Seoul was, from all reports, a shot across the bow, bringing an entirely new style of cooking to South Korea, though it would be difficult to puzzle out what makes much of it Korean. His sensibilities are not like the overelaborated razzle-dazzle intentions of David Chang. Yim is more interested in a minimalism that is actually complex, whereby to look at his dishes is not to know how much thought went into them. Sometimes all that work still comes out as a rather bland reality, but in most the results can be wondrous. ... "