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" ... You wouldn't think that a vitrine filled with a long row of neon-yellow plastic squirt-jars of mustard, or an old fashioned pay phone with a slots for nickels and dimes, or a couple of red naugahyde diner booths with formica tables at your chin could actually soothe the ache of homesickness. But the folks behind the Parisian mini-chain of Schwartz's Delicatessens have done just that by limning the culinary bastion of Katz's Deli on New York's East Houston Street. Of course, Schwartz's towering, delectable pastrami sandwiches, bagels and lox, burgers, chicken liver, the precise North American tang of its cole slaw, and its awesome, feather-light pommes frites are the real reasons that the decor works so well to comfort the wandering American. Ok, everthing is 'new.' But if you squint hard, you could almost be on the Lower East Side. ... "