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" ... Among the main courses, I’ve found it’s best to go with the more special ones you won’t find anywhere else, like meltingly tender short ribs long braised in Peroni beer with cherry peppers and topped with Gorgonzola cheese ($25.95). The zuppa di pesce (seafood stew) is easily one of the best I’ve had in this country, made with mussels, clams, shrimp, calamari and other fish in a lusty tomato sauce that you sop up with the excellent bread on the table. I also always trust Roberto to obtain the freshest fish, and on a recent visit the Dover sole was fresh and impeccably cooked so it slipped off the bone; at $30.95 it’s one of the best bargains around. ... "
" ... As you’d expect: the specialty of the house is brisket. Though Lewis’ other offerings (like his pulled pork and housemade sausages) are certainly no slouch, it’s his inimitable ability to transform an otherwise humble slab of beef into something hauntingly aromatic and meltingly tender that steals the spotlight. In addition to taking plenty of time and care (16 to 18 hours for a brisket), Lewis only uses local oak wood in smokers he built himself. “This way I can turn out the exact product I want,” he explains. “My smokers are very efficient and clean burning, so nothing tastes overly smoky.” ... "