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" ... There is another appetizer section, and here’s where things get exciting, from a perfectly crisp calamari tempura, whose center remained creamy, with Korean shiso and a spicy mayo ($14) to Ssamjang hummus of roasted chickpeas and seasonal vegetables ($12). Wonderfully and subtly smoky was grilled eggplant with minced pork, mozzarella, pine nuts and breadcrumbs ($15)—a dish that seemed to sum up the best that Chef Choi is striving for, as does his simply named but complex mushroom stew chockfull of Oregon matsutakes, golden enoki, shemeji and king trumpets with puffed rice and tender bamboo shoots ($17). ... "