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" ... Roast chicken is a dish French chefs judge their mettle by, possibly in nostalgic comparison with their mother’s Sunday dinner. Vaucluse’s version is to take a hefty portion of the breast meat, roast it very juicy and serve it with a creamy polenta, matsutakemushrooms and a delightful chestnut crȇpinette ($36). I’ll give it a demerit, however, for its flaccid skin. (My Italian-American mother achieved a blistering crisp skin by sticking the chicken parts under the broiler.) ... "