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" ... Marques grew up in the countryside of Portugal, outside of Oporto near the Dao. For those unfamiliar, Oporto – Port – is home to the world’s most famous fortified red wine. The Dao is also an agricultural region, and until recent generations, rural life there was hard. “I remember my mom cried when our cow died” Marques, clad in suspenders, told me from behind the bar. His childhood house even had a lagar – the rectangular stone basin typical of the region used to tread grapes by foot. His family fermented local fruit for home use through the 80s until the early 90s when they stopped. Why, I asked. “Because the supermarkets came. They sold wine.” ... "