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" ... Unlike many Japanese restaurants that serve beer with sushi, Park, who was born in South Korea, believes beer does not pair well with his seafood creations, including katsuo, one of his most inventive dishes. Park’s katsuo consists of smoked Japanese bonito tuna served in a shallow dish and topped with a plate of akami tuna and king crab. When diners finish the tuna and crab and lift the plate, smoke escapes from the bowl below. ... "