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" ... Van Aken and Chef de Cuisine Juan Garrido are doing a dazzling job of showing what Floridian Cuisine can and should be in 2018, albeit with some Asian inflections. Sometimes there’s too much happening on the plate, and eliminating at least one ingredient wouldn’t hurt a bit. But by and large each ingredient does make itself apparent beyond just looking good. Thus, first-rate hamachi is subtly enhanced by a mango aguachile of lime and chile peppers, Sichuan cucumbers and a Peruvian cream of black mint called huacatay. Chilled royal red shrimp get a boost from tomatillo-green apple salsa and smoked Japanese red caviar called ikura. ... "