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" ... In truth these hua jiao, as they're known in Mandarin, are not even peppercorns but berries, seeds of the prickly ash tree. When combined with the often fiery heat of chili peppers, probably first bought to Sichuan from India in the mid-sixteenth century, they make a one-two flavor profile known as málà that is unique in global cuisine -- and often addictive to those who fall under its spell. ... "