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" ... I’m heartbroken. I’ve just discovered that King Yum, the flame-red arched, interior tile-roofed and aquarium-filled, Flower Drum Song-like Chinese restaurant of my childhood, adolescence and adulthood closed in Fresh Meadows this fall. No more one from column A, two from column B. Gone are my deep dives into gloppy tureens of shrimp and lobster sauce. My fingers will never again get greasy with the vermillion char of Yum’s red-dye roasted spare ribs. My Cantonese Valhalla is gone, and alas, Chinese food in Manhattan pretty much sucks. Mediocre ingredients, well-worn menus, and a shortage of original chefs have locally denigrated one of the world’s great cuisines. If it wasn’t for the “special soup” and fried pork chops of Café Evergreen on 1st Avenue, I wouldn’t even bother with take out. It doesn’t have to be this way. Get thee to a RedFarm and revel in the vibrant wonders of its relentlessly inventive chef Joe Ng, egg-dropped on by his visionary boss Ed Schoenfeld (who masquerades as a Brooklyn Jew but has a soul as Asian as Jackie Chan). ... "
" ... Of course it sells St. Louis cut ribs ($15.95 to $26.95), along with brisket $10.95), pulled pork ($14.95), and fried bologna with jalapeños and cheddar ($12.95). The creamy, not gloppy, mac-and-cheese ($5) is a good side, and for an appetizer go for the crispy hush puppies with maple butter ($4.95) or the “burnt end toasted ravi[oli]s ($10.95).” Demerits for dried-out popovers that come with most main courses and the way some of the barbecue comes out barely warm. ... "