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" ... As little as 40 years ago, I was told, Madrid was crawling with mom-and-pop places devoted to one thing only: the small intestines of lamb cut ten different ways, each cut deep-fried in a large wok-like pan, each cut leading to a finished product with its own distinct look. The overall name to describe this type of ingredient is gallinejas…and I was told that once upon a time there were 75 establishments in Madrid serving it daily and exclusively…usually to large tables of whole families, there to get their gallinejas fix. Today? There is only ONE of these places left in Madrid today, and at 9PM on a Friday night it wasn’t jammed. But there was a delightful Madrid family seated near me, grandfather and all, missing only the grandmother. “Grandma used to love this place,” they told me sweetly. “So we come here several times a year as a tribute to her.” ... "