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" ... Our table of four shared a massive porterhouse for two (we demolished it) and a fine New York strip, all cooked with a good searing on the outside. Colorado lamb chops with mint leaf salad ($58) were good, if not out of the ordinary. Lomonaco has added Japanese wagyu to the menu at $225 for 12 ounces, if such an extravagance is your wont, as well as a two-pound butter-poached lobster with a fricassée of fennel, leeks and carrots ($75). ... "
" ... Over a dinner of foie gras terrine, sea scallops with caviar and chicken with mushroom fricassée at New York’s Benoit restaurant, I interviewed Garcin about modern viticulture in his region. He explained that La Nerthe uses four to five grapes in its Châteauneuf-du-Pape, whereas most of his neighbors use one or two. (Nineteen varieties are allowed to be used by law, ten red and nine white.) Garcin, who gained his expertise on clonal research while working for the U.S. Department of Agriculture, noted that “in the next 20 years we need to find resistant plants, and, because we are organic, we use the least amount of spraying. Global warming has not yet been a problem, but we do careful pruning and would irrigate only to save a crop that has been affected by too much heat, which affects the acids, aromas and phenolic maturity. We are certainly picking earlier now to avoid the wines going above 14.5 percent alcohol.” ... "
" ... The food has steadily been improved at the taverns— especially the King’s Arms (dating to 1772) and Christiana Campbell’s (supposedly one of George Washington’s favorites)--, utilizing fruits and vegetables from the gardens and offering dishes typical of 18th century cooking, like peanut soup, a seafood fricassée and rum cream pie. The estate’s most expensive restaurant, the Rockefeller Room, in the luxurious Williamsburg Inn, renovated last year ny the Puccini Group, has a more eclectic menu and has been undergoing some updating in service, though my meal indicated that the kitchen has a ways to go to be called contemporary fine dining. ... "