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" ... Chardonnay offers everything from easy-drinking everyday wines to sophisticated and high-quality wines. You would often find citrus and exotic fruit on the nose. However, Chardonnay is more commonly recognized by the taste than by the nose. The taste is full-bodied and round, often with good acidity, but it varies with the climate. The aromas tend to be citrus, melon and peach, sometimes tropical fruit. There is always a certain richness and texture. More acidity and crunchiness can be found in Chardonnay wines from cooler climates. Elegance is a word often used to describe a Chardonnay. ... "
" ... Here, at a temperature below boiling, saltwater flows out of a pipeline into massive tanks shaped liked swimming pools. Most coarse salt sinks to the bottom and is eventually used to cure ham. It is both pure and very white. A fraction of the salt, however, floats on the water surface. This is skimmed off by individuals holding nets—like pool skimmers used to capture leaves. Known as Fleur de Sel, this salt is treasured by gastronomic chefs because of its properties of lightness, taste, crunchiness and the fact that it retains its flavor after cooking. ... "
" ... Porter House’s menu does not stray from the sacrosanct formulas of the steakhouse genre, though there is no sense of a kitchen simply going through the motions of turning out its 50,000th dish of creamed spinach. Case in point are the onion rings: Had Lomonaco invented them, they would be hailed as a New York original; instead he has perfected them as big wide ribbons of crunchiness from a well-seasoned batter and the sweetness of the onions within. No one does them better. ... "
" ... Thirty-five years ago, only 16% of German wines were dry. Now, the figure is approaching 50%. This is good (I think). Dry Riesling, especially from Germany, has a remarkable, unique, crunchiness and liveliness that is hard to imitate. A good quality Riesling, in my opinion, doesn’t need any residual sugar. ... "