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" ... When Morandi first opened, it got beat up, simply because McNally had been on such a winning streak that, as the arbiters of our popular culture routinely dictate, it was time to dump on him. Morandi, however, did offer low-hanging fodder, particularly its uncharacteristic, claustrophobically short ceiling, high noise level and, since it was McNally’s first foray into Italian food—our city’s favorite cuisine—critics could cite a laundry list of competition. The ceiling, however, was simply unexpected. There’s nothing awkward about it. The din remains, but if you sit in the back left alcove, at an outside table or choose ones against the windows, acoustics are much better. Morandi’s menu, however, is as dependable as a Lancia, especially with Italian dishes savored for their simplicity, like cacio e pepe (pasta in pecorino and black pepper), pici al limone (spaghetti with lemon and parmesan), fried eggplant, grilled chicken with chilies and lemon or fried artichokes. Like other McNally locations, food is not designed to challenge but to fulfill expectations, and Morandi does so with consistency and confidence. ... "