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" ... Domaine Weinbach Schlossburg Riesling 2017 ($50)—The aromatics in this fine three-year-old Grand Cru Alsatian Riesling are complex, and the 13.5% alcohol gives it a lively buoyancy along with the zesty acids. It’s made in ,a tough, wet terroir so grapes must be carefully culled from the vineyards, and only about 8,000 cases were made. With choucroute, of maybe a St. Patrick’s Day dinner, this will be terrific. ... "
" ... In Kreuther’s case it was a shift away from his previous work at Jean-Georges and at The Modern, for at this new restaurant with his name on the door he was able fully to showcase his proud Alsatian heritage, not by merely serving up hearty platters of choucroute, baeckeoffe and coq au Riesling, but by using the traditions and flavors of his region to express his personality in what have become signature dishes always on the menu. ... "
" ... Once they trusted us they became much more adventurous—although my older son’s first taste of an oyster did not go down well; indeed, it didn’t go down at all. But they came to love, even crave, things like Alsatian choucroute garni (funny frankfurters) and vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce), and Dover sole a la meunière (fish swimming in butter). Lavish desserts were a no brainer, but we never insisted they finish anything on their plates as a bribe for dessert. We were happy enough that they’d steal the trenette al pesto and the paella alla valenciana from under our knives and forks. They learned to eat well and they did eat well, which was why they grew up loving food as much as we do. ... "
" ... When I plan a gastro-trip to the Windy City, I take its serious restaurants as seriously as I do the serious restaurants in any other major urban center: Paris, Rome, New Orleans, San Francisco, etc. But if you know me, you know that I'm always more than usually interested in the underbelly of a city as well! I'm perennially storming the barricades of choucroute places in Paris, salumi pile-ups in Rome, po' boy joints in New Orleans, and burrito bodegas in San Francisco. ... "