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" ... The inevitable choice of wines by a sommelier to go with such foods is almost always driven not by a reasonable match-up but by what the sommelier says is “something quite unusual for this course,” which might turn out to be a Kimoto-style sake, followed by an Austrian Grüner-Veltliner, a California charbono and a Canadian ice wine. Imagine if this were a twelve-course meal, which for most people is gluttonous excess and good reason to have a designated driver. After two or three courses can the palate be that discerning as to how well such beverages go with such involved recipes? Have you really learned anything about the wines worth using at your next dinner? ... "