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" ... 4. And all the other harvests. "For mushrooms to name just a few—porcini, chanterelles, black trumpets, Caesar’s mushrooms (Ovuli). When you see cars pulled over on the side of the road, there is a good chance someone is foraging,” says McIlvaine. “Lentils, borlotti beans and chickpeas abound—the beans are harvested and dried. The Spoleto area is particularly known for its chestnuts. They can be found roasting as street food at almost every festival this time of year.” ... "
" ... So well-detailed as soon as you sniff this, with minerality cutting through sage and lime zest, unexpectedly enough, alongside cranberries and pomegranate seeds. On the palate, this is structured and still in its youth, yet without the overt primary fruit you’d expect. Flavors of espresso beans and cocoa powder dust the tongue, and frame notes of forest floor and golden chanterelles seasoned with just-picked thyme. Power, elegance, and an herbal lift set this apart. ... "
" ... That hard-working rotisserie turns out an excellent chicken with chanterelles, rice pilaf and classic sauce chasseur ($34), very juicy with nicely browned skin. The entrecôte au poivre—a little pricey at $52, but you get very good French fries, which would add ten bucks on a steakhouse menu —had a good beefy flavor and texture that absorbed the impeccably reduced black pepper sauce. ... "