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" ... On my first visit we began with a beef tartare correctly diced and enhanced with a brown butter emulsion, the tang of pickled red onion and some puffy garlic toast. There was a verdant springtime risotto with rich goat’s cheese, sweet fava beans and saffron-pickled onion whose every texture was perfectly rendered, and all flavors subtly overlapping each other. So, too, fat nine-herb cappelletti were bathed in a beurre blanc and a judicious sprinkling of Parmigiano. (Pastas are available as either an appetizer or main course.) Gravlax of salmon was silky and mildly flavored with a sauce gribiche, salmon roe and caper berries with thinly sliced pumpernickel. ... "