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" ... For the volume Mastro’s does—an average 300 covers a night— Executive Chef Dusmane Abdoulaye Tandia works like a field marshal, and, although there were some lags between courses on a recent night, the food came out at the right temperature, the plates for the meats hot and the choreography of waiters, runners and busboys impressive as dishes are carved, scooped and plated with precision. ... "
" ... It was famed chef, Anthony Bourdain, who claimed in his Kitchen Confidential book that the reuse of bread was industry-wide; that it was common for busboys to send rolls back into the dining room if they looked untouched in baskets. In a post-Covid eatery, diners won’t miss the end of second-hand bread. ... "
" ... Opening a restaurant demands a fervent love of the business, from the owners to the chefs and often the waiters and busboys who fantasize about someday owning their own place. Even restaurateurs who beg their sons and daughters not to follow them in the rough-tough business find their children often leave other, more secure professions to come back to work in the family’s restaurants. And because of that love restaurants have historically proven far more resilient than many other small businesses, not least after wars and pandemics have utterly destroyed them. ... "