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" ... For months thereon, I started to taste the pasta and I forced myself to be aware of how shape inflected different tastes: the thickness, length and outer texture of the pasta as well as the folds which leave certain parts less cooked than the non-folded parts resulted in the sauces attaching themselves differently. Indeed, I began to understand quite intuitively how to prepare various pasta dishes and why certain sauces were better for certain shapes than others. Although I never adapted to the burro e salvia (butter and sage) sauce for tortellini, I became a fan of the marinara sauce for this pasta and quickly understood why Italians don’t use parmesan with seafood pasta. Everything began to have a logic that was almost completely unhinged from local traditions. But even then, what seems to be cultural is often much more about the rhythm of the body that doesn’t, for instance, ingest milk after breakfast. Order a cappuccino in Italy in the afternoon and you will see what I mean. ... "
" ... To eat and drink: Spaghetti with burro di malga [a prized Alpine butter] and bottarga di Trota (trout fish roe)—the Mosers like to pair this with their 51,151, a 100% chardonnay Trentodoc; risotto with salmerino (a local river-fish) and crescione (an aromatic herb) with their Brut Nature, also made entirely of chardonnay grapes. For a lighter bite they like smoked salmon with a green salad dressed with Garda DOP extra virgin olive oil, drunk with Rosé Extra-Brut, made with pinot noir grapes ... "