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" ... He turns deep fried blowfish tails—repeat, blowfish tails—into a snack you could endlessly chomp on like potato chips. Luckily, Esca has sensational bread, because you may devour half a loaf soaking up with aromatic, herbal glory of his Zuppa di Pesce. If there are fishies you have always resisted, like smelts, anchovies, monkfish cheeks, smoked bluefish or sardines, allow this man to win you over. Succumbing is rarely this unexpected or sublime. I have never really understood the point of ordering a whole fish and having a server filet it and take away the bones. Would you do that with a porterhouse or prime rib? Even if you insist on filleting the whole pompano or sea bass, have the server leave the scales and tail (fine, take the head if you must, though you shouldn’t) because eating their delicious meat really won’t be enough. You really should suck on those bones. ... "