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" ... There are now oceans of Barolo, many indistinguishable from Barbera, a lesser Piedmont wine that now also enjoys DOCG status. And there are IGT wines that sell in excess of $150 a bottle whose alcohol levels hit 15% and higher—a level that appalls most traditional winemakers and sellers, but currently enjoys high ratings from the wine media. Part of that rise in alcohol is due to global warming, though most of it is due to the way the winery purposely makes the wine. ... "