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" ... A note about those hybrids. Throughout the eastern states, cold-hardiness is an issue. Grapes like Baco Noir, Noiret, Cayuga, Vignoles have been grown here for decades, making them if not exactly native, at least on their way to becoming traditional grapes, shaped by and shaping back the Hudson Valley, crucial components of these lands’ expressions and sustainability. In the right hands, they are made into complex, ageable wines that show off this tricky climate just as seriously as the vinifera – white and red – here does, ever more elegant and convincing tastes of the river region’s makeup these days. Alcohol levels tend to 10% to 13%. ... "